Process

Millinery is the art of designing and constructing hats for women. Elwyn Crawford began designing hats three years ago, an activity that developed out of her prior artistic pursuits. Before becoming consumed with hats, her creative work focused on drawing, mixed media collage and assemblage sculpture but she had very little experience sewing. The early hats were derived from vintage pieces that Elwyn cleaned, shaped, cut up and recreated, giving old forgotten flea market finds a new life and simultaneously discovering the structures of a variety of hat styles. An admiration for millinery construction ensued and further studies contributed to her craft. She still approaches each hat as all her artwork, with an interest in resolving a composition in terms of balance and color while making a provocative statement.

The current method employed most frequently for O’Lover Hats is called blocking. Each hat is shaped on wooden blocks by hand. Begin with a hat body, either in straw or felt and open the fibers, either with steam (felt) or water (straw). She then quickly blocks the form by pulling down and around crown and brim blocks and securing the shape with cords, or by working the shape free hand over a crown block alone. The latter is like sculpture and is oodles of fun, resulting in distinct and natural shapes, while the former creates crisp hats.

To finish the hat, she trims off excess material. If the edge of the brim is raw felt (the result of some styles of free form blocking), it is sanded for a soft look; if the brim is folded, a wire is sewn in to provide structure. The hat is then trimmed inside and out with colorful ribbon. Oftentimes found objects such as keys, watch faces, belt buckles, jewelry, washers and other artful detritus are used for trim. Thus O’Lover hats artfully combines new and recycled materials.

The new line of vinyl hats represents Elwyn’s interest in expanding hat making beyond the traditional materials of felt, straw, fabric and leather. These dynamic hats are made by torching old 45s and 12-inch records. Elwyn is excited to develop this line to include even more inventive headwear for people wishing to vibrantly flaunt their unique personalities.